Margaret River’s hottest new restaurant is called de’sendent and the unusual name is a nod to executive chef, Evan Hayter’s favourite punk rock group and also an acknowledgement of continuing the legacy of the late, much-lamented Arimia restaurant that closed its doors in 2023.
We were very excited about trying de’sendent. It’s been awarded a Chef’s hat, named WA’s new restaurant of the year by the West Australian Good Food guide and given the accolade of one of the best restaurants in WA from Gourmet Traveler.
However having had lunch at a local winery, I felt that we couldn’t manage a full meal and booked for the snack menu.
This menu is served from 4pm to 6pm, Wednesday to Saturday. The restaurant also does a tasting menu ($180pp), only served from 6pm to 8:15pm. There is a wine pairing option for $99.
de’sendent describes itself as a supercharged version of the Arimia Estate where Evan Hayter and co-owner Ann Spencer previously produced really good food.
Arimia had a reputation for growing and sourcing high quality, local, organic produce. de’sendent’s co-owners share a passion for local, seasonal ingredients, umami flavours and producing farm to table food..
Opening in 2024, de’sendent seats 35 inside diners plus a small al fresco area looking over Margaret River’s main street. First time patrons, such as my husband and myself, should ask locals where the restaurant is situated as it is not big on advertising itself. There is only a small poster on a pole in the al fresco. But not to worry – we eventually found it, tucked in next to the Margaret River Fudge Factory on the Busselll Highway.
Front of house is Joshua, who is a walking encyclopedia of food and drink knowledge. He is pleasant, friendly and extremely efficient. He is also a very good cocktail maker. While my husband settled for a boring gin and tonic ($14), I opted for de’sendent’s take on a dirty martini – a Forage martini ($22). Vodka, dry vermouth, mushroom consommé and olive brine. Definitely different. The drink was served with some very good green olives and as I poured the consommé into my glass, I was wondering if a restaurant that served soup mixed with alcohol was the right place for two older, not so trendy Sandgropers. Much to my surprise, I enjoyed it and would definitely order it again.
Despite the snack menu dishes being advertised as share plates, my husband and I ordered two different dishes to start. He ordered six pickled oysters ($28) and I opted for two crayfish Krupuk ($8 each) and yes that was a new one on me too. A krupuk is a take on a prawn cracker normally made from shrimp paste with garlic and different flavourings. At de’sendent it was moulded into a small ice cream cone and filled with a delicious mixture of marron and avocado crema then topped with black caviar.
Next up were two salt baked beetroots on a spent bread crisp ($10) and two blue swimmer crab croquettes ($12). Spent bread crisps are made from off cuts of sourdough bread that is baked fresh every day. Both these dishes were excellent and very flavoursome. Other items on the menu include two carrot tartares with kelp crisp ($10) and two Albany sardines on charcoal brioche ($12)
We finished off with an apple crumble – beautifully cooked apples topped with a macadamia crumble and a bay leaf ice cream. All dishes were beautifully presented with an outstanding attention to detail.
I was glad that we had opted for the snack menu as we were pretty full by the time we left. Next time we will book for the degustation and just have a real ‘snack’ for lunch!
Private dining is available but with a minimum spend of $10,000 to have the entire restaurant for yourself and your guests, I’m guessing that the average West Australian will not be taking advantage of this offer!
Address: 152 Bussell Highway, Margaret River
Phone: 0499 038 878
Reservations: Yes
Opening hours: Wed-Sat: 4pm until late. Last seating is at 9pm.
Gluten-free options: On request
Vegetarian options: Yes
Restrooms: Clean and accessible
Parking: Heaps of car parks available at a car park next door to the restaurant.
Website: www.desendent.com
