Opening in May 2024, Gibney in Cottesloe has quickly garnered a stellar reputation. WA’s Restaurant of the Year, Australia’s Best New Wine List and Best Superior Dining in WA to name just a few. These awards from The West Australian Good Food Guide and the Australian Hotels Association are just an indication of the popularity of restaurateur George Kailis’ latest venture.
The location is outstanding – just across the road from South Cottesloe Beach – views are panoramic from Rottnest to Garden Island.
My husband and I decided to try out Gibney for my birthday lunch. Gibney prices match its location and accolades and I would designate it as a special occasion restaurant for most of us.
There are three distinct areas for patrons – the bar area, inside dining with feature windows opening onto the third impressive section – the large, open and more casual outside terrace.
We were greeted just inside the imposing main doors and shown to our table. In common with most upmarket restaurants, the inside dining area has sparkling tablecloths, napkins and no salt and pepper on the table. A nice touch was a card on the table wishing me a happy birthday.
We requested still water ($12) but were given tap water before the server rectified his mistake. And much to our surprise, the waiter took our drinks and food order at the same time. In most high-end restaurants, drinks are served prior to the food order being taken.
The wine list is extensive and much admired by the hospitality industry with Sommelier of the Year, Nina Throsby and Bartender of the Year, James Gentile on duty in Gibney.
A table of six people, next to us, were having pre-lunch martinis from the tableside cocktail cart. Apparently Ian Fleming got it wrong when James Bond asked for his martini to be shaken not stirred as Gibney serves its martinis stirred.
My husband had a beer from Busselton’s Shelter Brewing Company ($14) followed by a glass of Barossa Valley Grenache ($15) with lunch. I opted for Bellini champagne cocktail ($24). It was my birthday after all!
After ten minutes, as our starters had been served, we had to remind the waiter that our drinks had not been delivered.
The food was very good. Half shell scallops with garlic, kombu butter, and parsley crumb ($12 each) were my choice as a starter. Kombu butter is infused with the umami flavour of edible kelp, and it is delicious, but it was not evenly distributed. A couple of my small scallops had a good amount of the butter, but the third had a dribble. My husband chose two Blue Swimmer Crab tartlets with celeriac and apple remoulade and sorrel ($14 each). He enjoyed his tartlets, but two were definitely needed, as each tartlet is a canapé size.
As Gibney describes its menu as drawing inspiration from old-world brasseries and steak houses, my husband decided to try a steak for his main course. He ordered a 300g sirloin (O’Connor 3+) with preserved garlic scape (curly green stalks) and chimichurri ($62). Frites with tarragon mayonnaise ($15) and Parilla roasted carrots with caramelised hot honey, labneh, and caraway ($18) were his choice of sides.
The verdict? The steak had a good crust and been sliced for service. Very tender and tasty with the chimichurri a perfect accompaniment. Fries were good but these matchstick-type fries tend to cool very quickly and the tarragon aioli didn’t add much. However the carrots were the star of the show and I could easily have eaten a whole plateful not just the taster I pinched!
I had the Gibney Caesar – assembled at our table by a friendly waiter who described each ingredient as he placed it in the bowl. Crisp cos lettuce, Parilla-crisped confit chicken, white anchovies, croutons and a soft egg – meticulously boiled for exactly seven minutes. The tasty dressing also contained anchovies. It was a very good Caesar but well overpriced at $48 considering that the main and most plentiful ingredient is lettuce.
The ambience was good as the restaurant was busier than I expected for a midweek lunch. Patrons ranged from young couples, some with babies, to tourists and seniors. The clientele also included a well-known food reviewer, late of Channel 7 and now plying his trade with WA Today.
Gibney has a fabulous setting, upmarket atmosphere and the food is good albeit overpriced. Dine in the indoor dining area for a special occasion or visit the terrace and enjoy the view and food from the snack menu or enjoy the atmosphere in the bar. George Kailis has studied his audience and come up trumps – again!
Address: 49 Marine Parade, Cottesloe (cnr of Gibney Street)
Phone: 08 9468 1540
Reservations: Yes but walk-ins are welcome
Opening hours: Seven days, 12pm-10pm
Gluten-free options: Request
Vegetarian options: Yes
Restrooms: Clean and accessible. Lighting in the ladies restroom was quite dim – it would be difficult to redo make-up.
Parking: Free on-street parking. Plenty of spaces available during midweek lunch but it will be difficult on the weekends.
Notes: A smart casual dress code is encouraged at Gibney. Children are welcome although there is no children’s menu on offer. The restaurant is unable to accommodate prams and high chairs are not available.
Website: www.gibneycottesloe.com
